Take into account the croissant: a historical past of meals fraud, by Benoît Bréville (Le Monde diplomatique


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Meals adulteration uncovered: German chemist Friedrich Accum lectures on the Surrey Establishment

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In the 18th century, unscrupulous butchers pumped air into animal carcasses to extend their dimension and colored greyish meat with dyes resembling cochineal to make it a healthy-looking crimson. They put meat that had gone dangerous into sausages. Bakers combined every part and something into their dough: plaster, chalk, sand, talcum powder, potato starch and so forth. These practices, though not rigorously checked, could possibly be severely punished. Bakers caught adulterating bread might even be hanged.

Three centuries later, the multinationals that produce prepared meals plump up hen breasts by injecting them with water. To retain succulence throughout cooking, they add polyphosphates, a so-called ‘stabilising’ additive that binds water to proteins. And the processed meat business provides sodium nitrite to ham to offer it an appetising pink color. These processes are authorized. All of the producer has to do is point out in small print on the packaging the components used, generally within the type of cryptic codes: E452 for polyphosphates, E250 for nitrite and so forth.

The assorted hyperlinks within the meals chain (producers, retailers, restaurateurs and so forth) have all the time tried to alter the looks of the meals they promote — its weight, quantity, style and odor — solely to extend their earnings. In his Treatise on Adulterations of Meals and Culinary Poisons , printed in England in 1820, the German chemist Friedrich Accum expressed concern at ever-increasing meals fraud and its affect on shoppers’ well being. The quilt of his e-book quoted the Outdated Testomony: ‘There’s demise within the pot.’

The cost sheet Accum drew up was dizzying. White pepper (thought-about extra luxurious than black) was typically merely black pepper that had been soaked in urine and sun-dried. The black pepper offered to poor individuals contained a big amount of mud. Sulphuric acid was added to vinegar to spice up its acidity; copper made pickles greener; molasses colored beer; straw, leaves and dried twigs discovered their approach into tea.

Accum’s (…)

Full article: 1 692 phrases.

(1A Treatise on Adulterations of Meals and Culinary Poisons, 1820, obtainable at collections.nlm.nih.gov/.

(2Alessandro Stanziani, Histoire de la qualité alimentaire (Historical past of meals security), Seuil, Paris, 2005.

(3Quoted in Anne Sleeswijk Wegener, ‘Du nectar et de la godaille: qualité et falsification du vin aux Provinces-Unies, XVIIIe siècle’ (Of nectar and carousing: the standard and falsification of wine within the United Provinces within the 18th century), Revue d’histoire moderne et contemporaine, vol 51, no 3, Paris, 2004.

(4See Sydney Watts, Meat Issues: Butchers, Politics and Market Tradition in Eighteenth-Century Paris, College of Rochester Press, 2006.

(5Jean-François Tanguy, ‘Le laboratoire municipal de Rennes et l’hygiène alimentaire (1887-1914)’ (Rennes’s municipal laboratory and meals hygiene, 1887-1914), in Yannick Marec (ed), Villes en crise? Les politiques municipales face aux pathologies urbaines (fin XVIIIe – fin XXe siècle), Créaphis, Grâne, 2008.

(6Mireille Delmas-Marty, Le Relatif et l’Universel,vol 1:Les Forces imaginantes du droit (The imaginative forces of the legislation), Seuil, Paris, 2004.

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